A Journey Through French Polynesia: From Bora Bora to Tetiaroa
View from a One Bedroom Villa at The Brando
Getting to The Brando
Flying from San Francisco to Tahiti takes just six hours, a surprisingly short trip to reach one of the most remote and breathtaking destinations on Earth. It’s one of only two places in the world where you can stay in a true authentic overwater bungalow (Maldives being the other), and even after years in travel, I still felt a sense of awe the moment we landed.
After a few days at a conference in Tahiti, we boarded a small ten-seater plane for a short 45-minute hop to Bora Bora. The moment you arrive, you realize this isn’t your typical airport experience, there’s no line of taxis, just a row of boats waiting at slips behind baggage claim. Each resort has its own cruiser, captains, and crew ready to take you directly across the lagoon. Our destination: The Four Seasons Bora Bora.
Arrival boat from Bora Bora airport to Four Seasons Bora Bora
The arrival boat was polished and comfortable, with Wi-Fi, cold towels, and a personalized refillable bottle for you to use throughout your stay and take home with you, a thoughtful touch that’s both useful and eco-friendly. When we docked there was a trio of musicians who greeted us with drums and song, instantly setting the tone for our stay. It was raining, as it would be for much of the first half of the trip and this is common for shoulder season in December, but somehow that ended up adding to the experience. The group I was with gathered up in one of our overwater bungalows with a glass of rosé, watching the clouds roll across Mount Otemanu, all of us grateful for the excuse to slow down.
That afternoon, despite the weather, we joined a pareo painting workshop, learning from local artists how to hand-paint tropical motifs like hibiscus flowers and palm leaves. Later, I joined a private lagoon snorkeling tour guided by one of the resort’s marine biologist, easily my favorite experience of the trip. The Four Seasons Lagoon Sanctuary where we snorkeled is an ecosystem that serves as a natural safe haven for countless fish species, shielded from by shallow sandbars that predators cant pass and the tide rolls in and out. During the tour, we drifted gently with the tidal current as our marine biologist pointed out coral formations, rare sea creatures, fish, and the delicate balance of the reef system. It’s the kind of experience that makes you appreciate just how alive and fragile this place is, and how deeply the resort invests in protecting it.
One-Bedroom Lagoon-View Overwater Bungalow Suite at The Four Seasons Bora Bora
Bora Bora is unlike anywhere else. It takes a day or two to understand its rhythm, no cars, no traffic, and for the most part no elevation, just a scattering of islands and lagoon paths connecting one dreamscape to another. At the Four Seasons, the layout feels intentionally meandering; walkways weave across the water, leading to open-air restaurants, hammocks, and villas perched on stilts above the turquoise lagoon. The resort design is “imperfectly perfect”, and that’s what makes it magical.
My overwater bungalow was everything I’d imagined and more. An airy living room led out to a private deck with steps straight into the ocean, plush bedding (in true Four Seasons fashion), and warm woods that tied together its sense of place. Dinner at Vaimiti, the resort’s Asian-inspired restaurant, was a standout, with eclectic flavors, sunset views, and cocktails that could rival any bar in the world. One night, our server (who also happened to be a sommelier) surprised us with an impromptu wine tasting, another reminder of how much care and intention goes into every detail of the resort experience.
Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora
From there, we traveled by boat to The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort. When we arrived, bicycles were waiting outside each of our villas, a fun contrast to the golf carts used at the Four Seasons (though they had bikes too), and we rode everywhere along palm-lined boardwalks suspended over the lagoon. The overwater villas here were larger and more colorful, with open layouts and sweeping views.
Like the Four Seasons, the St. Regis has its own private lagoonarium, though this one is fully enclosed, creating a more aquarium-like feel. It’s home to countless fish species that thrive in the clear, ocean water that is brought in through an underground passage to keep it oxygen-rich. One afternoon, we participated in the coral grafting activity, an initiative that supports local reef restoration. While the long-term environmental impact may be modest, it’s a meaningful gesture, one that connects you to the ocean’s fragile ecosystem. Each coral fragment is tagged, scanned, and later tracked by the resort, with updates sent to you as your coral continues to grow and flourish.
The final stop on our journey was The Brando on Onetahi, a private island within the Tetiaroa atoll, just a short hopper flight away. (An atoll is a ring-shaped group of coral islets that form around a sunken volcano, creating a lagoon at its center, a rare and delicate ecosystem found only in a few places on Earth.)
Once a royal retreat for Tahitian chiefs, Tetiaroa was later discovered by Marlon Brando while filming Mutiny on the Bounty in the 1960s. Enchanted by its beauty, he secured a 99-year lease on the atoll and envisioned it as a model for sustainable luxury and cultural preservation. Decades later, his vision was brought to life through a partnership between his estate and Tahitian hotelier Richard Bailey, resulting in The Brando Resort that exists today.
Landing on Tetiaroa feels like stepping into another world. The arrival experience is breathtaking, and a short walk leads you to an open-air reception framed by thatched roofs and the gentle sound of waves. Just beyond, the beach stretches out in white sand that feels almost unreal in its perfection. The resort has just 35 villas, each tucked along the shoreline, no more than a few steps from the sand. My villa opened directly onto a stretch of untouched beach that served as a sea turtle nesting ground. Each evening, I’d walk out to check for hatchlings making their way to the ocean, this was a reminder of how untouched and pure this island remains.
Each villa is entirely private, complete with a plunge pool, gazebo dining area, and open living spaces that blur the line between indoors and out. Meals can be taken privately in your villa or at one of the resort’s restaurants. Les Mutinés, built within an inverted ship structure, offers a theatrical tasting experience, where each course traces the path of a legendary voyage. At Bob’s Bar, the island’s social heart, I ordered what might have been the best beachside Smashburger I’ve ever had, with a craft cocktail designed by the bars mixologist. The bar’s menu is designed like a scrapbook of Brando’s life and the island’s history. In the book (aka menu) every detail feels intentional, perfectly placed images of Marlin and his friends and how the island came to be which I found to bring more appreciation for the special place you’re in.
Arriving to The Brando
The Beachcomber Café offers oceanfront dining with a refined but relaxed atmosphere, and every dish highlights ingredients grown or caught on the atoll. What’s remarkable is that everything at The Brando, from energy to water to waste - operates sustainably, without compromising luxury. Even the air conditioning is powered by deep-sea water cooling. The resort's first priority and mission is always preservation, and hospitality follows naturally behind it.
Our final morning included a Polynesian cultural workshop, followed by a snorkeling excursion around the atoll, where we spotted eagle rays gliding beneath us. From August through October, you can even swim with humpback whales if you’re lucky, as the surrounding waters serve as a nursery for mothers and calves, one of the few places on Earth where such an experience is possible.
As one review I read perfectly put it: “At The Brando, you may never see many of the other guests at all, privacy is the true luxury here.” I couldn’t agree more. This trip was easily one of the most incredible experiences of my life. I left Tetiaroa deeply inspired, grateful to have seen such a place firsthand, and hopeful that it will remain just as pristine for all to come.
If French Polynesia has been on your list, it’s every bit as magical as it looks, and then some. I’d love to help you plan a journey that captures its true beauty and rhythm. Get in touch here.
