Bali and Sumba Island Travel Guide: From Ubud's Monkeys to NIHI's Retired Racehorses
There are trips you plan, and then there are trips that rearrange everything you thought you knew about a destination. Indonesia did that for our family. What started as a bucket-list vacation turned into one of the most layered, surprising, and genuinely moving travel experiences I've had, both personally and as a luxury travel planner. From Emirates business class to baby turtles taking their first strokes in the Indian Ocean, every day delivered something I didn't see coming.
If Indonesia is on your radar, here's exactly what our trip looked like, what surprised us, and the insider tips I now pass along to every client considering Bali, Sumba, or both.
My room’s patio at NIHI Sumba
Why We Chose Emirates Business Class for the Long Haul to Indonesia
Getting to Indonesia from the U.S. is a commitment. Our routing involved a 15+ hour Emirates flight split across two legs, and I'll say this plainly: splurging on business class for the longest segments was one of the best decisions of the entire trip. The lie-flat seats, attentive service, and excellent food meant we actually landed feeling human. When you're traveling with family and facing that kind of flight time, the upgrade from economy to business is less of a luxury and more of a survival strategy. Emirates made the journey itself feel like the vacation had already started.
A 48-Hour Dubai Stopover That Stole the Show
Rather than white-knuckling the full journey in one push, we built in a 48-hour layover in Dubai. We checked into a Hyatt property (always a reliable bet for comfort and cleanliness) and used the time to reset our body clocks and squeeze in a real experience.
The highlight was a desert excursion complete with dune bashing. Picture this: our SUV cresting massive sand dunes at speed while my perpetually nervous mom laughed so hard she forgot to be scared. That alone was worth the stopover. The evening wrapped up with a cultural dinner under the stars in the open desert, complete with traditional music and incredible food. What I expected to be a simple rest stop turned into one of the most talked-about moments of the trip.
Travel planner tip: A Dubai stopover on the way to Southeast Asia is one of my favorite recommendations for clients. It breaks up the travel, adds a completely different cultural experience, and Emirates makes it seamless to build into your routing.
Arriving in Bali: Jimbaran Puri and the Art of Slowing Down
Our first stop in Bali was Jimbaran Puri, a beachfront resort right on the sand in Jimbaran Bay. After the long journey, this was exactly the right call. The property sits on one of Bali's most beautiful stretches of beach, and the pace is blissfully unhurried. We spent our first couple of days doing very little beyond eating fresh seafood, watching sunsets, and letting the jet lag melt away.
Jimbaran is the kind of place where you don't need an itinerary. The beach, the food, the warmth of the staff: it all works together to bring you back to baseline after a long trip.
The Viceroy Bali: An Independent Gem in Ubud's Rainforest
From Jimbaran, we headed inland to the cultural heart of the island and checked into the Viceroy Bali in Ubud. Despite the name suggesting a big-brand hotel, the Viceroy is actually an independently owned boutique resort nestled into the edge of a tropical rainforest valley. The villas are stunning, each with a private pool and sweeping views of the jungle canopy below.
But the real magic of the Viceroy wasn't the property itself. It was the wildlife.
The Cheeky, Clever Monkeys of Ubud's Monkey Forest
From our villa at the Viceroy, we could watch entire troops of monkeys navigating the jungle below like tiny, furry commuters on a very specific schedule. They moved through the trees with complete confidence, and honestly, watching them became my favorite morning ritual.
Then we visited the Ubud Monkey Forest, and things got even more entertaining. These long-tailed macaques are legendarily intelligent and completely shameless. They will absolutely try to pickpocket you. Sunglasses, water bottles, anything they can grab. Our guide prepped us beforehand (secure everything, don't make direct eye contact, and if a monkey grabs something, let it go), and that coaching made the whole experience fun instead of stressful.
Ulun Danu Beratan water temple at sunrise in Bali Indonesia
Bali's Hidden Water Temples and Waterfalls
One morning, we woke before dawn for a visit to a hidden water temple, and it was the kind of experience that makes you understand why people fall in love with Bali. The light, the mist, the quiet. It felt sacred in the truest sense.
We also did a family-friendly hike to a tucked-away waterfall, which was lush, dramatic, and just challenging enough to feel like an accomplishment. One unexpected moment: my blonde-haired sister became an absolute celebrity. Other visitors kept asking for photos with her, and we were baffled until our guide explained that blonde hair is an unusual sight in certain parts of Indonesia and some visitors find it fascinating.
Sumba Island and NIHI Sumba: The Untouched Side of Indonesia
After Bali, we were scheduled to fly to Sumba Island, a remote destination off the beaten path that most travelers never reach. A volcanic delay pushed our departure back (Indonesia keeps you humble), but when we finally landed on Sumba and made it to NIHI Sumba, every minute of waiting was forgotten.
NIHI Sumba is unlike any resort I've experienced. The welcome felt personal. The butler service was genuinely attentive without being intrusive. And the property itself blends so naturally into the landscape that you feel like you're staying in someone's beautifully designed home on a wild, untouched coastline rather than a traditional luxury hotel.
This is the kind of place that changes your definition of what a resort can be.
Releasing Baby Sea Turtles at NIHI Sumba's Turtle Hatchery
I wasn't prepared for how emotional the turtle hatchery experience would be. NIHI Sumba runs a conservation program, and guests have the chance to release baby sea turtles into the ocean. You hold this impossibly small creature in your hands, set it on the sand, and watch it scramble toward the water on legs that barely seem strong enough for the job.
When my turtle hit the first wave and started swimming, I genuinely teared up. There's something about watching a tiny animal begin a massive journey that hits you in a way that almost no other travel experience can. It was hopeful and bittersweet all at once.
Horseback Riding on Sumba's Untouched Beaches
The horseback riding at NIHI Sumba deserves its own section because it wasn't your typical guided trail ride. The resort keeps retired racehorses, and these animals still have speed and spirit. Riding one of them along Sumba's wild, empty coastline felt genuinely cinematic. No crowds, no fences, just open beach, crashing waves, and a horse that clearly still loved to run.
For anyone who enjoys riding, or even for first-timers looking for something extraordinary, this was a standout moment.
The Spa Safari: NIHI Sumba's Most Memorable Wellness Experience
I've been to a lot of resort spas. NIHI Sumba's Spa Safari is in a category of its own. The treatment takes place in a secluded, open-air setting perched above the ocean. No music piped in, no ambient soundtrack. Just waves. The entire experience feels less like a spa appointment and more like the island itself is doing the healing.
If you visit NIHI Sumba, do not skip this.
What I Took Home as a Luxury Travel Advisor
This trip gave me so much more than vacation memories. It gave me a level of firsthand knowledge that I bring to every Indonesia itinerary I build for clients. I know which Emirates cabin to recommend and why. I know that a Dubai stopover isn't just logistical, it's a highlight. I know the difference between Jimbaran's beachfront ease and Ubud's jungle energy. I know what it feels like to hold a baby turtle and ride a retired racehorse along an empty beach.
The only regret? Not staying longer.
